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There's something so deeply cool about Urwerk. I recently wrote about how I wrestle with loving the idea of vintage watches but find modern watches so enticing, and if there's one brand that pulls me toward the modern aesthetic more than any other, it's Urwerk. Their watches are modern, mean, tough, and just plain cool. And for how crazy they look, they're incredibly legible and self-explanatory time-telling devices, something that can often get lost in making something creative for the sake of it.?For all the horological innovation underpinning Urwerk's new UR-150, the core things that make the brand so great haven't changed. They've just taken on a slightly new form. ...

Last month, Greubel Forsey released a watch that I would argue is their greatest achievement to date: their Nano Foudroyante EWT, a 38mm flying tourbillon chronograph monopoussoir with foudroyante. That French word salad in a wearable case, with some of the best finishing on the market, is exactly the kind of thing that old-school Greubel collectors love. But newcomers to the brand were rater incredulous. That was not the kind of watch they think of when they think of Greubel Forsey. This, on the other hand, is another version of "peak Greubel" C the Double Balancier Convexe Black Carbon. And it's great in its own way. To be fair...

Welcome to "GPHG Week," a themed mini-series where we're covering four winning watches from this year's Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genve that you otherwise may have previously missed. Today, we're exploring this year's "Chronometry Prize" winner from Bernhard Lederer, a discretionary prize for the "best-competing timepiece that stands out for its remarkable precision timekeeping performance (special escapement or distinctive regulating device) and which is officially certified (ISO 3159 standards) by an inspection authority." A bit over a year ago, at the urging of my former colleague Logan Baker, I met with Bernhard Lederer for the first time as he visited New ...

We're back with another episode of Hodinkee Radio. In addition to the podcast feed, each episode also has video, so swing by Hodinkee's YouTube channel (or watch below). Only want the audio? It's being published to the same old Hodinkee Radio feed, so check your feeds or subscribe wherever you find podcasts (try Apple Podcasts, Stitcher, Spotify, or TuneIn). Over the past few years, stone dials have seemingly popped up everywhere. More modern brands are making them. At the same time, vintage examples have become more collectible and jumped in price considerably.But stone dials are still a relatively undiscovered corner of watch collect...

For the 20th Anniversary of Greubel Forsey, the brand is back with their 10th "Fundamental Invention:" the Nano Foudroyante EWT, and it's a doozy of a watch. If you know the brand, you'll know their inventions, and the "Invention Pieces" that have celebrated these achievements have often iterated on the tourbillon, and this is no exception. What all started with the 30o double tourbillon led us to this: an incredibly wearable monopusher chronograph (a flyback, no less, and their first chronograph) and their first-ever flying tourbillon. But that's not all that's going on here. This watch, in a 37.9mm by 10.49mm white gold case wi...

It's Friday on Hodinkee.com, welcome back to Bring A Loupe! Next week, I will be on the ground in Geneva to bring you a special edition of this column after viewing many of the watches up for auction in person. I'll have picks across the spectrum of price and brand, all informed by the watches themselves in the metal. In the meantime, this week's edition will be more classical with picks across the web. In our last edition, a Roger Smith Series 2 Open Dial was arguably the highlight of the bunch and I am pleased to report that the watch found a potential new owner as it has been marked as "on hold." If the Roger Smith wasn't the highlight, it was a Cartier London...

On the heels of the brand's first new collection in 25 years, Patek Philippe is in the news once again with an integrated bracelet steel sport watch. The reference 5711 Nautilus in steel has dominated headlines since its introduction in 2006. Through 10-year-long waitlists, discontinuation, and two "victory laps" in the one-year-only green dial and the infamous Tiffany Blue dial, the wind-down process of Patek's most desired and controversial watch only made it more popular.? Today, the one word and four numbers that can send tingles down the spine of a watch collector ring out once again. The steel 5711 is back (presumably for t...

If you were to come up to me on the street and say, "Hey Ben C?what is the best watch made in the 1990s?" I would not hesitate to answer: The A. Lange & Sohne Pour le Mrite Tourbillon. Now, if you were to come up to me and say, "Hey Ben C what is the one tourbillon wristwatch watch that you actually would want to wear and/or own?" I would not hesitate to answer: The A. Lange & Sohne Pour le Mrite Tourbillon. The halo product of Lange's re-birth was indeed the Pour le Mrite Tourbillon. Indeed C I just love this watch. The PLM (as many call it) was part of the initial collection from Lange dating back to 1994, and whi...

Here's a surprise I never saw coming: the Dutch horological brothers Tim and Bart Gronefeld have just announced not just a new watch, but an entirely new entry-level brand called Gr?ne, which takes much of the Gronefeld design language and brings it to an affordable price C 2,150. The debut model, called Manueel One, features a salmon tremblage center dial surrounded by a two-step, brushed, rhodium-plated exterior dial with diamond-cut edges, blued hands, and a blue printed exterior track. The case, in 316L stainless steel, measures 38.5mm by 10mm thick (9mm without the scratch-resistant sapphire crystal), with a 20mm lug width ...

The last time we covered watchmaker and mechanical engineer David Candaux, back in 2019, it was just two years after he took a leap of faith and stepped out on his own in Le Solliat, right in the heart of Valle de Joux to found his own eponymous brand. Up until that time, Candaux built a career developing some of the craziest movements out there, with 36 patents under his name. A few weeks ago, Candaux stopped by to show me some of the current lineup, and the brand's identity has largely remained steadfast. If you're curious to read more about the story of the brand, Nick Manousos does an excellent job interviewing David in his ...

Longines has just expanded its Mini DolceVita offering to include a lineup of models crafted in 18-carat yellow and rose gold C an indulgent upgrade to its existing stainless steel offering. Miniaturized yet meticulously detailed, these watches are small, shiny, and very Art Deco. Go figure. According to Longines, the Mini DolceVita family, introduced in 2023, draws its essence from the tank-shaped model (seen below) created in 1927, showcasing the brand's rich heritage in jewelry-adjacent watches. This year, Longines brings us four new models that push this line even further into a category of its own. The rectangular cases meas...

Welcome back to Bring A Loupe and to Geneva Winter Auction weekend 2024! Here you'll find a comprehensive wrap-up of lots across price, brand, and auction house. I landed in a foggy Geneva just this morning as I write to you dear readers and spent my day briskly walking between the four major houses, previewing far too many watches for one Hodinkee editor to handle. Okay fine, I won't complain, it was a great day. I am happy to report that the red-eye from Newark was worth it, the watches are excellent. The people are alright too, with some familiar faces around town. I repeatedly and unknowingly knocked the back my chair against Rexhep Rexhepi's at the Sotheby's preview, for example. There ...

Today, Nomos builds off of their previous Club Sport variations in 37mm, 39mm, and 42mm and introduces the smallest size yet in the automatic winding and 200m water-resistant lineup. When the brand previewed these to me a few months ago in Glashtte, I immediately knew that they were my favorite of all the upcoming novelties. Of course, the brand saved the best (these) for last, having released the Tangente 2date and the Neomatik Dor models in the meantime. The smallest of the Club Sports, these neomatik 34 models are released in three colors - ros, gold, and purple. All three of these dial colors have a brushed, sunburst finis...

The 2024 Winter Auction Season in Geneva took very little time to warm up. Only the 14th lot of the over 1,600 on offer has made headline news. Friday afternoon Geneva time, F.P. Journe's second wristwatch ever made, a Tourbillon Souverain Remontoire d'Egalit from 1993, hammered for CHF 6,000,000, with an all-in price tag of CHF 7,320,000 ($8,357,441). Until yesterday, the most expensive F.P. Journe sold at auction was "The Hand," a piece unique made for Only Watch in 2021, which sold for CHF 4,500,000 all-in to benefit charity. Talk around Geneva and the greater watch world did not question if this lot would surpass The Hand, that seemed like a given. But whe...

Our friends at Time+Tide have announced a new collaborative release with TAG Heuer today, which adds some extra Australian warmth to the already fantastic titanium diver released last year. With touches of 18K 5N rose gold on the bezel, plating on the applied indexes, hands, TAG Heuer and Time+Tide logos, the new Aquaracer Solargraph "Sundowner" is a subtle, strong update to a watch that has quickly become a favorite for people looking for a no-nonsense do-everything daily wearer. The previous release of the Aquaracer Solargraph in 2023 was great for two main reasons: price and straightforward, solid specs. This follows in the sa...

Last month, in partnership with UBS, we hosted a get-together and series of talks in New York City called "House of Craft." The event featured a who's who of watch-world luminaries, including industry legend Jean-Claude Biver, actor Keegan Allen, chef Alton Brown, AP CEO of the Americas Ginny Wright, actor Daniel Dae Kim, journalist Jay Fielden, independent watchmaker Simon Brette, actor and comedian Ronny Chieng, dealer and collector Alessandro Fanciulli, auction specialist Geoff Hess, menswear designer Todd Snyder C and the gentleman we have today: NCAA basketball champion, 19-year NBA star, and watch collector Carmelo Anthony. Photo: David Aujero ...

Nivada Grenchen, the king of digging through historical archives, has announced a new Antarctic GMT. Guillaume Laidet, the brainchild behind the modern revivals of Nivada Grenchen and Vulcain, tells me that this time, the inspiration comes from a 1960s Antarctic GMT our site had offered many years ago, and says that it's the only place he's seen one. Two standouts on the watch were the Ervin Piquerez S.A. (EPSA) compressor case and a funky red-and-black straight GMT hand. The original Antarctic GMT ref. 87013, this late 1960's example sold on Hodinkee a few years back. ...

As you watch this, there's a pretty good chance that I'm sitting with Adam Victor at Greats of Craft in New York City's Sutton Place, having a bagel and a coffee or maybe a beer in the afternoon, and chatting about one of the watches you see in this video. It's become a habit for us and a respite for me in the busyness of day-to-day life.? We talk about family, life, the weather C everything you'd catch two retired 80-year-old New Yorkers gabbing about with their loose two-tone Datejusts jangling off their wrists (except Adam always wears something slightly more interesting). Then we'll chat about watches, look at movements, fawn over things we've seen, things we...

If you're looking for nostalgia, there's few places you could get as strong taste of it as you do with a DW-5600. Well, forget the taste. Bait's new "Innovation" collab with G-Shock is like a punch in the face taking you back to the '80s. It's 1980s Apple meets modern memes and a twinge of green that makes me feel like I'm in a vintage arcade. And it's awesome. Based on the current standard DW-5600 frame, the watch itself traces back to the original legendary model from 1983. If you've handled one DW-5600, you've handled them all, for the most part, but it's got a 42.8mm by 13.4mm resin plastic case with integrated band. The move...

We're back with another episode of Hodinkee Radio. In addition to the podcast feed, each episode also has video, so swing by Hodinkee's YouTube channel (or watch below). Only want the audio? It's being published to the same old Hodinkee Radio feed, so check your feeds or subscribe wherever you find podcasts (try Apple Podcasts, Stitcher, Spotify, or TuneIn).? For this episode, we are joined by Tania Edwards, co-founder of Collectability and former employee of Patek Philippe. Her extensive knowledge of Patek, as well as her many years of experience in its marketing department, make her a bona fide expert when it comes to the brand's her...

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