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Quartz technology was largely responsible for the aesthetic evolution of horology in the '70s. It created a design action/reaction from Swiss haute horlogerie giants, including Patek Philippe, who, in the face of new technology, had no choice but to get experimental. It was also the starting point of what Hodinkee alum Joe Thompson has previously called "The Fashion Watch Revolution." In the decade that followed the introduction of battery-operated watches, a vast segment of production focused less on the core timekeeping function and more on the outward appearance, evolving into fashion accessories that just so happened to tell the time. This Japanese-imported t...

After a couple of sleep-deprived days at the fair, the general sentiment seems to be circling the idea that it's a bit of a quiet year. That's not hard to understand, either, as this year's releases lack the pomp and circumstance of celebration dial Rolex, smaller divers from Tudor, a brand new chronograph from Lange, and so forth. From my perspective, this year feels more subtle C more about product and refinement. To understand that, you need look no further than the mid-level stoke following Tudor's release of the highly anticipated Black Bay 58 GMT. It's a smaller take on the brand's travel watch ideology and a watch I know many of us have been asking for since the original Black Bay GMT...

This past weekend, Ben and I hopped a couple of flights out to Aspen, Colorado, for the first-ever stateside running of the F.A.T Ice Race. Nestled in the mountains north of the iconic American ski town turned playground for the rich and the famous, the event spanned two full days of truly special cars taking to a snow track to bang out laps in the high-alpine pursuit of good old-fashioned automotive camaraderie. And while the cars on site spanned well over 70 years of production, the idea of the Ice Race dates back to the 1950s when, in Zell am See, Austria, a group of car enthusiasts started racing their cars on a local f...

Talk to 10 vintage watch enthusiasts, especially around the idea of value, and you're bound to hear about vintage, pre-1970s Movado. In fact, if you talk watches with me for more than 10 minutes, I am bound to bring the brand up myself. To a small but vocal crowd, vintage Movado offers a combination of value and quality that exceeds just about any other brand. There has always been a community of vintage Movado lovers; I used to joke that if a great example came up for auction, it was the same four people bidding on it C the only four people in the world who cared. If I lost out on a good Movado, within two texts, I could usually find who beat me out. But things ...

About a month before Watches & Wonders, a Vacheron Constantin team member told me something big would come from the Maison just ahead of the trade show. They also told me they thought I would be uniquely suited to cover the news, which to me meant only one thing: there was a pocket watch coming from Vacheron. For all the jokes from friends and colleagues, my passion for horology started with pocket watches, and I will forever be curious when a modern brand taps into that old style of watchmaking to do something interesting. But when I found out what Vacheron had in store, it wasn't just interesting, it was also historic. As it turns out, the watch was called the Berkley Grand Complicatio...

Ben Clymer has a thing for baguette diamonds. He told me back in April when he showed up to Watches and Wonders wearing his new Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomtre Contemporain II Diamant. Clymer used his allocation for the most exclusive modern watch in the world C and he went for one with baguette diamonds. So what pushed Clymer to go for gems? Baguette-set watches sit at the very top of the gem-set watch totem pole. They can be tastefully opulent or outlandishly decadent. There is something undeniably refined about a sprinkling of baguette indices on a mid-century dress watch; the stones are long and slender and expensive C they are the Ingrid Bergman of diamond cuts. ...

As you watch this, there's a pretty good chance that I'm sitting with Adam Victor at Greats of Craft in New York City's Sutton Place, having a bagel and a coffee or maybe a beer in the afternoon, and chatting about one of the watches you see in this video. It's become a habit for us and a respite for me in the busyness of day-to-day life.? We talk about family, life, the weather C everything you'd catch two retired 80-year-old New Yorkers gabbing about with their loose two-tone Datejusts jangling off their wrists (except Adam always wears something slightly more interesting). Then we'll chat about watches, look at movements, fawn over things we've seen, things we...

The all-black watch case. A symbol of modernity, stealth, you know... tacticool. A counter to the centuries of luxuriously shiny precious metals. Ok, maybe I'm being a bit dramatic, but it's undeniable that through the cyclical nature of watch trends, black watch cases and the all-black aesthetic in watches have proven their staying power.? The MB&F HM3 Poison Dark Frog, with a black PVD-coated zirconium case. Where did we see this start taking place in the watch space? Well, while many material innovations in watchmaking stem from more technical desires, it seems that the concept of the all-black watch came from purely an...

There's an adage in watch collecting: "Everyone should own a Speedmaster." I took that to heart early in my watch journey. I thought that if owning a Speedmaster was a prerequisite to being a "watch guy," I should also be able to identify every vintage Speedmaster reference at a glance. I studied everything C lug shape, dot over 90 bezels, fonts, engravings, text, dials C and promptly forgot it all about a week later. I got burned out before I even bought a Speedmaster. I moved on. Ever since I've never seriously considered buying a Speedmaster C until recently, when two options started calling to me.? The first option was the new "Ed White" C a straight-lugged r...

The day after Watches & Wonders is always a rough one. The night before, we had a fantastic party at Lucid Studios in Geneva, where the community came out in full force, and the drinks flowed. Afterward, the Hodinkee crew ordered some pizza to the hotel and stayed up late bonding before we all went our separate ways the next day. My flight was early and then delayed, not long enough to get any extra sleep but just long enough to be a tease. And then airport security (as always in Geneva) searched both my carry-ons because they were flummoxed by camera equipment. Then I see it. Something to make me happy. The Swatch store in the Geneva airport.? Id resisted t...

Most people could tell you it's been a quiet year in the watch world. Major brands scaled back C rumor has it that 2025 will be "the year" that everyone brings out the big guns C and even indies seemingly kept it tame. It's been hard to even pick my favorite releases this year. But if that's all you're thinking about in the watch world C the coolest new releases, the hype, whether or not you get that allocation or can afford that new watch C I think you're missing the bigger picture. Let me tell you a story. The movement of the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomtre Contemporain II with diamonds. What could be better than that? Not much. ...

If you love motor racing, especially endurance racing, Hurley Haywood needs no introduction. The Chicago-born race car driver had a career that would make him the hero of any aspiring racer, including five wins at the 24 Hours of Daytona, two overall wins at the 12 Hours of Sebring, and three victories at the 24 Hours of Le Mans. Yes, that's a twofer for the "triple crown of endurance racing," and those are only the highlights. Haywood is nothing short of a road-racing legend, and he's enjoyed a five-decade partnership with two very important names in the world of endurance racing: Porsche and Rolex.? We caught up with Hurley in ...

Titanium watches have taken off in popularity in the past few years. The lightweight metal has been used in watchmaking for at least 50 years, but only recently has it proliferated across brands big and small, at prices high and low. From Rolex's first foray into commercially "available" titanium with the Yacht-Master to more affordable watches from Citizen, Baltic, and others, there are options aplenty. For this edition of Three on Three, we're talking titanium. With so many titanium watches available, we wanted to narrow it down a bit. So we picked three very different titanium watches under $10,000 and debated their respective merits: the Tudor Pelagos 39, Gra...

This isn't going to be an open letter C although it could be C because I love Patek Philippe. Truly and sincerely C it is the brand by which all other *haute horlogerie brands* are measured in my eyes for its ability to shape-shift and bring collectors exactly what they want at times and push things forward for so many years. Self-winding watches, perpetual calendars, chronographs, repeaters C effectively all contemporary complications have a basis in something that Patek Philippe was involved with in a material way. And some of Patek's watches today are exceptional C hell, I got married in a Patek Philippe. That's the type of brand that I think Patek is.Having said that, this isn't going to...

Some collectors like to cover a broad spectrum, and some are completists. When it comes to vintage Patek Philippe, being in the former camp is far easier than the latter. As an illustration of that point, I want to talk about one of Patek's most iconic and yet C I'd argue C overlooked references: the ref. 2497. The ref. 2497 was Patek's first serially produced central-seconds perpetual calendar. Frankly, it's an oddball design and C dare I say it C not my favorite Patek perpetual calendar. It's funny now, in hindsight, that I spent so much time on this article, which all started because of one simple question for which there was no easy answer available online. B...

In partnership with UBS, we hosted a get-together and series of talks in New York City called "House of Craft." The event featured a who's who of watch-world luminaries, including industry legend Jean-Claude Biver, actor Keegan Allen, chef Alton Brown, AP CEO of the Americas Ginny Wright, actor Daniel Dae Kim, journalist Jay Fielden, independent watchmaker Simon Brette, actor and comedian Ronny Chieng, dealer and collector Alessandro Fanciulli, auction specialist Geoff Hess, and menswear designer Todd Snyder. Photo by Chris Eckert Continuing our weekly rollout of the videos for each session from October's UBS House of Craft he...

Welcome back to Bring A Loupe, and happy Friday! Our last Friday and BAL edition before the end-of-year holidays kick off. Are you in need of a last-minute, very nice gift for someone on your list or even yourself? I hope I can help. As this is a weekly feature, a bunch of great watches tend to sell in between. This 1957 Tudor Submariner ref. 7922 that sold on eBay a few days ago for $25,720.12 frustrated me, it would have been a perfect BAL watch. It is a project and needs TLC, but the bones are there for an excellent example of Tudor's first Submariner. Our highlight watch from last week, the Gbelin-signed Patek Nautilus ref. 3700/1 with box and papers found a...

Tis the season for inward reflection and, if you're anything like me, tallying one's losses. While dwelling on personal low points is routine behavior for any Brit, my 2024 was actually a year of immense personal gain and growth. There were peaks C AP Royal Oak Minis, closing Volume 13 of Hodinkee Magazine, and trips to Greece and Hong Kong. There were troughs C I'll keep those closer to my chest. All in all, as the year winds down, I can confidently say that I am much closer to having found my footing in this strange little bubble we call watch enthusiasm. The year started with a video I am immensely proud of C Watches in the Wi...

This year, we saw big changes in the watch world C consumer appetites changed, and the market continued to see softness across the board. Many brands went back to the drawing board, seemingly in an attempt to carve out new strategies for the next five years amidst an uncertain customer landscape both in the US and abroad. CEOs shuffled around different conglomerates, and brands slashed their marketing budgets. On the flip side, independent watchmaking continues its meteoric frenzy. Newer icons like Rexhep Rexhepi, Simon Brette, and Sylvain Berneron continue to produce far under its exponentially growing demand, and the old guards like Kari Voutilainen take deposits for what seems like inconc...

Remember when, a few weeks ago, Hodinkee's founder, Ben Clymer, began an article with an anecdote about how he often reminds his employees how long he has been doing this? I have been on the receiving end of that lesson many times. Reminded of how relatively young I am, I have enough self-awareness to not position this essay as a complete insider look at the watch world while also recognizing that I have seen some shit in the past five years. Using the photos here to highlight some of the best watches and moments of my 2024. This, a Rexhep Rexhepi CCII, was the best watch I ran into by chance this year, at an event with Range Rover during Monterey Car W...

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