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Switzerland's watch recovery stumbled in September. Global exports totaled CHF1.65 billion ($1.68 billion), down 6.9% compared to September 2017, according to the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry (FH).?It was the first drop in watch exports since April 2017. One factor, the FH said, was that there was one fewer working day in September this year than last year. The data represents the value of watch shipments from Switzerland to Swiss watch subsidiaries and agents around the world. It does not reflect retail sales to consumers.Wristwatch exports were down in units and value in every price segment, -6.7% in units and -7.4% in value overall. ...

When the first spring-driven clocks were invented in the 15th century, they brought with them a conundrum that would become one of horologys holy grails C providing constant and consistent energy to the movement. Today, the vast majority of machines run on constant force: cars and planes, for example, dont start running more slowly as their fuel runs low. A mechanical timepiece works quite differently. The force, or torque, delivered by its mainspring varies as the mainspring unwinds, resulting in fluctuations in the watchs timing rate over the course of its power reserve. Watchmakers, clockmakers, and engineers alike have pro...

Well, it's that time again: auction season. Just as fall brings colorful leaves and pumpkin spice everything, it also brings a bevy of watch sales, big and small, hosted by auction houses of all sizes around the world. Kicking things off, Heritage Auctions is hosting a sale in New York City tomorrow at 10 AM ET. There are 643 total lots, and they range from 19th-century automata to current production wristwatches, with nearly every base in between well covered. I combed through the assortment though and found five watches that are both exceptionally rare and perfect pieces to wear and enjoy. These are five you definitely don't want to sleep on. Rolex Daytona Ref....

Breitling has been on the march. It's hard to believe its been just 12 months since Mr. Kern (formally of IWC) and his team went in with the intention of accelerating its product development while simplifying its range. Having seen new additions to the air segment of its four worlds (air, land, sea, and professional) earlier in the year with the Navitimer 8, today In London I had the opportunity to get up close with the new Premier collection.?The Premier launched back in 1943, and has always been focused on subtlety and elegance versus rugged functionality.?This new collection is made up of a series of four core references in time only, day-date, and chronograph formats with an array of dia...

Breitlings?new Superocean Hritage II Chronograph?44 Outerknown celebrates?the?brands?partnership?with Outerknown, the sustainable clothing company co-founded by 11-time world surfing champion Kelly Slater (a personal hero of mine). Initially, when Outerknown was founded in 2014, it began by making surf shorts and bomber jackets with ECONYL yarn, a material created from nylon waste, one source of which is?fishing nets from oceans around the world.?This yarn has now been used to develop the brand's first NATO-style strap, further advancing its mission of improving our environment through responsibly-made products.Introduced in 1957, the Superocean was designed to be used by recreational and...

I will admit it right off the bat: I don't really know anything about Formula 1. Occasionally I'll catch a glimpse on TV of the cutting-edge cars racing through the streets of Monaco or on the iconic track at Silverstone, but that's about where my knowledge of the sport stops. That said, I know who Lewis Hamilton is. The four-time F1 champion transcends the sport he leads, with his sense of style and big personality pushing him beyond the traditional boundaries. I was fortunate enough to be in Austin, Texas, last week ahead of the U.S. Grand Prix and had a chance to chat briefly with Hamilton on the eve of race weekend. Of course I had to ask to see what was on his wrist. ...

Planes just don't seem to get the same love as cars (other than from those strange dudes who stand just outside airport fences with their telescopic lenses... no doubt that's what they would say about us and our watches). But few will argue with the fact that Concorde was a beauty. That she flew faster than a rifle bullet and in doing so halved the time it took to cross the Atlantic only added to the allure. In total, over 2.5 million British Airways passengers experienced flying at the dizzying height of eleven miles at twice the speed of sound (though I unfortunately wasn't one of them), and to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the aircraft, Bremont has launched its eighth historical limit...

It was only a little over 24 hours ago that we told you today's Heritage auction had a few crazy rare pieces hitting the block. One of those pieces was an incredible Tudor Big Crown Submariner ref. 7924 that was causing lots of chatter in watch collecting circles. We knew the results would be worth paying attention to, but it turns out they're even better than we anticipated C this watch commanded a price of $162,500, including buyer's premium, making it the most expensive vintage Tudor ever sold at auction. For a little context, the previous record holder is a bit of a nontraditional example. The ref. 7923 is the very first Tudor Sub, from 1953) and the only ref...

The year 2018 marks the 50th anniversary of the Ralph Lauren brand, which changed the fashion landscape with its polo shirts, preppy ties, and aspirational leisure lifestyle envisioned by their New York-based designer and company founder. More recently, Laurens vision was applied to watches, a subject of his long-term interest. Just over a decade ago, RL partnered with the Richemont Group on a project to make high-end watches in what Lauren, a lifetime collector, deemed "the right way." He opted not to follow the well-trodden path of licensed products that has been paved by so many other fashion and lifestyle brands.? ...

This week, it's mostly so-called "professional" watches C those designed with a specific occupation or pursuit in mind C that have caught our attention. Sure, there's a stunning gold classic thrown in for good measure, but whether it's something like a Universal Genve "Nina Rindt" meant for racers or the Vulcain Cricket Nautical meant for divers, we wanted to bring you pieces that were born to, you know, do something. For those a bit less inclined to venture into the air or the sea, there's a Rolex designed for more scholarly pursuits too. Let's get into it. Omega Seamaster 300 Ref. ST 165.024 'Big Triangle' ...

When you talk to watch nerds about their first trips to Geneva, there's one things that's pretty consistent, no matter the collector's taste or preferences: they almost all visit the Patek Philippe Museum. The halls of that Swiss institution hold some of the coolest watches of the last few centuries, including many not made by the famed manufacture. So when Patek decided to bring some of its most valuable pieces to New York City for a temporary exhibition, open to the public, in the summer of 2017, it was a very, very big deal. Ahead of the opening, we paid a visit to the so-called Grand Exhibition and gave you an inside look C let's take a glance back and revisit the experience. ...

Subscribe to the show: (Apple Podcasts, Stitcher, Spotify, TuneIn). Already heard it once or twice? Please leave a short review here, and tell us which guests we should have on! Spotting watch executives is a pretty easy thing to do. There's a uniform: a sober blue or grey suit, a finely made but stylistically uninteresting necktie, black semi-brogue shoes, and a demeanor that's just aloof enough to let you know that their time, like the products they make, is valuable.?The first time I met Davide Cerrato, however, he was wearing bespoke orange trousers and a bright blue double breasted blazer, paired with a matching striped shirt and ...

Over my decade writing about watches, one thing has become clear to me: while lovely creations of art and engineering, timepieces are nothing more than ordinary objects without the people wearing them leading extraordinary lives. My favorite watch stories to read and write are not about the money fetched at auction, some new limited edition, or which celebrity has signed on to wear a certain brand. They are those about the exploits of people wearing watches, going to the Moon, sailing around the globe, or simply living a full life. Looking back though, there is one story of a wristwatch and its owner that stands above the rest: that of World War II veteran and prisoner of war, Charles Woehrl...

Subscribe to the show: (Apple Podcasts, Stitcher, Spotify, TuneIn). Already heard it once or twice? Please leave a short review here, and tell us which guests we should have on! This Friday night is a big one in the watch world. Geneva will play host to the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genve, or GPHG, the most prestigious awards we have in the watchmaking industry. Winners are chosen across a variety of categories, including things like complications, sports watches, best watch under CHF 6,500, etc., and the jury consists of journalists, industry experts, auctioneers, collectors, retailers, and watchmakers. (Our own editor-in-chief Jack...

If I were to tell you that Tudor isn't currently selling watches in Japan, you would probably think I'm crazy. But, that is indeed the case. Well, at least for a few more hours, that is. Tomorrow, October 31, 2018, Tudor is officially entering the Japanese market, opening up a mix of permanent retail locations and pop-up shops in Tokyo and Osaka, with distribution "quickly expanding" to Nagoya and Sapporo too. Retail partners include big names like Isetan, Daimaru, Takashimaya, Hankyu Umeda, Matsuzakaya, and Mitsukoshi. It's hard to imagine Tudor not finding an excited and passionate fanbase in Japan as it has in the United States and the U.K. since re-entering those markets in the last few ...

Last week, we teamed up with the well-dressed people at the Brunello Cucinelli boutique in SoHo for a meet-up hosted by our own Ben Clymer. Among the brand's wide selection of lovely things, a considerable group of local HODINKEE readers enjoyed some Italian hors d'oeuvres, drinks by Hennessy, and a selection of vintage watches from the HODINKEE Shop paired with outfits from Cucinelli. With food and style sorted, attendees were sure to bring the fire when it came to watches and we were far from disappointed by what we saw on-wrist. From vintage Rolex to modern AP, Seiko, IWC, and Vacheron, the watches and general style certainly suited the location and it was great chatting with all who atte...

It is a truism in modern watchmaking that nobody needs a tourbillon. While technically accurate, what is true of modern mechanical horology in general is certainly true of the tourbillon: it is not so much what you do as how you do it, that distinguishes you from the other guy. Carl F. Bucherer's modern production of tourbillons took an interesting twist this year at Baselworld, when they introduced a tourbillon C the Manero Tourbillon Double Peripheral C with both a peripheral rotor, and a carriage driven at its periphery, which seems to be floating inside the movement with no mechanical coupling to the rest of the watch. For the firm's new Heritage Collection, a limited edition of the Mane...

Watchmaking has some apparent fundamental dichotomies across which no bridge (apparently) can be thrown: in-house vs. bauche, date window vs. no date window, 38mm or smaller vs. everything. Probably the most basic, of course, is quartz vs. mechanical C if connoisseurship is defined to some degree by what it rejects, the first thing budding watch connoisseurs generally do is reject quartz watches out of hand (I sure did). However, as with the in-house movement debate, it turns out that the reality is considerably more nuanced, as well as much more interesting, and watches that have a foot in both worlds make up a small but significant part of modern watchmaking history.? ...

It may be too late to sign up for some of the incredible jewelry making courses hosted by the L'Ecole School of Jewelry, supported by Van Cleef & Arpels, but there are three amazing exhibitions on display as part of the pop-up that you can still check out. L'Ecole was founded in Paris's Place Vend?me (the home of Van Cleef & Arpels) back in 2012 as a place where the public could learn the crafts that go into making high-end jewelry, including gem-setting, wax molding, lacquering, and more. L'Ecole has much to offer its students and hosts classes year-round. L'Ecole first came to New York back in 2015, setting up a pop-up to bring the school's programming ...

Subscribe to the show: (Apple Podcasts, SoundCloud, Google Play). Already heard it once or twice? Please leave a short review here, and tell us what topics you'd like us to chat about.? Collection inspection returns with Volume 6. The boys are back with another deep dive into the watches that make up their personal collections. For this latest edition, Jason shares what makes the CWC Royal Navy Diver so appealing and James goes into what makes his Rolex Explorer II so perfect. Jason's CWC Royal Navy Diver James's Rolex Explorer II 16570 Be sure to listen though ...

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