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When I think about Richard Mille watches, the first word that comes to mind is "aggressive." There's always something a little bit in-your-face about RMs, and the watches wholeheartedly embrace this distinctive attitude. From the tonneau case shape to the skeletonized movements to the use of color and texture, these are watches that beg to be looked at. So, as you can imagine, when the RM 17-01 Tourbillon Carbon TPT showed up on my desk, I paid attention. I'll be honest with you: Until this watch arrived, I'd never seen it or heard of it. Richard Mille quietly added it to the collection back in September 2019, simply posting it to Instagram, avoiding the usual pr...

I remember, not long ago, reading a review which began, "We strive for objectivity in our reviews, but every once in a while, something comes along that panders to our prejudices." So it is with the new Moser Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic, which I found resonated with many of my own personal tastes, on a lot of different levels. This is a first for Moser in several respects; it's the company's first automatic chronograph, as well as its first integrated steel bracelet watch, and it also represents the first time that Moser has used a chronograph movement from Agenhor, whose AgenGraphe chronograph movement was first used by Faberg in 2017, and which in has also been used by Singe...

If you can, think back to 1994. Given the path that my life has taken, it was an important year in the life of a young boy obsessed with a great many things, including ?the underwater world, cameras, Playmobile, LEGO, and just about anything that glowed in the dark. 1994 was also the year I asked for my first watch.? Early in the year, I was confronted with a dilemma of great magnitude C how to spend the birthday money I received from my grandmother. For a soon-to-be eight-year-old, there is no power more nectarine in its sweetness than one's birthday cash. Mine came in two parts. I wanted to see the 1994, large-dog comedy sequel...

In 2006, the Richemont Group acquired the historically important independent Swiss watchmaking marque Minerva, founded in 1868, and folded it into Montblanc, then known primarily for its writing instruments.?Based in Villeret, in the Bernese Jura, Minerva had for much of its history been known for its quality chronographs and stopwatches C vintage examples of which can still be found fairly easily, and at attractive prices at that. In the early 2000s, prior to its acquisition by Richemont, Minerva's then-owner, Emilio Gnutti,?took the company steeply upmarket, adding impeccably finished movements that rivaled those from the big names of Swiss watchmaking to its repertoire.?The watch we're go...

Armin Strom specializes in a quite unusual type of watch C the company is one of the very few makers in horological history to create series-produced resonance watches. The only other modern makers which I'm aware of who also have done so are of course, F. P. Journe, and Beat Haldimann, the creator of the Haldimann H2 Flying Resonance tourbillon (an extremely exotic double balance tourbillon with remontoir d'galite, which debuted in 2002).? Armin Strom's approach to creating a resonance watch is different from that used by Journe, and by Journe's predecessors, such as Breguet. The Journe Chronomtre Rsonance has two separate going trains and two separate bala...

Reservoir launched their first watches at Baselworld in 2017, and built their first collection around a simple idea C or perhaps passion might be a better word. The company was founded in 2017, in Paris, by Fran?ois Moreau, who brought to the designs his long-standing fascination with instruments and gauges from a wide range of applications C the most obvious connection is to automotive gauges, but Moreau also cites gauges from submarines, manometers (pressure gauges) fuel gauges, and so on. The biggest difference between gauges and most watches is of course the fact that gauges have distinct endpoints C a fuel gauge, for instance, shows a full tank at one end and an empty one at the other, ...

The Horological Society of New York's award-winning classes are on the road again! HSNY is returning to Chicago over the weekend of February 8 & 9, 2020, with host Oak & Oscar. At HSNY's Horological Education classes, students discover what actually makes a watch tick under the guidance of the HSNY's staff of professional watchmakers. Students work on a mechanical watch movement, studying the gear train, winding and setting mechanisms, and escapement. The weekend half-day classes cover everything taught during the individual evening classes held in New York. Enrollment is now open for the Chicago classes, and we look forward t...

Although it is probably not as widely appreciated in general horological circles as it should be, the Metropolitan Museum of Art has some incredible timepieces in its collection. They are, however, thanks to the curatorial structure of the Met, not generally assembled in one area C the British Museum and Science Museum in London, for contrast, both have separate exhibition areas for clocks and watches (the Science Museum's collection is actually the collection of the Worshipful Company Of Clockmakers). At the Met, however, watches and clocks fall under the umbrella of European Decorative Arts, and so are often found in that context C in recreations of rooms with period furniture, for instanc...

Subscribe to the show: (Apple Podcasts, Stitcher, Spotify, TuneIn). Already heard it once or twice? Please leave a short review here, and tell us which guests we should have on! We're back! After taking last week off, we're hitting the ground running with the first HODINKEE Radio episode of 2020.?I thought it would be nice to start by looking at some of the biggest stories from the first week of the year. To that end, I pulled Jack and Cara into the studio, since they each hit a total home run last week. First up, we chat about Jack's introduction of the stainless steel Omega Speedmaster with a caliber 321 movement, a watch that collec...

It's been a few weeks, but fear not, I didnt forget about you guys! Feeling recharged as ever, the column returns for another year of tempting picks galore, hailing from all corners of the globe. In this week's roundup we've got a couple uncommon Rolex references for both him and her, along with a military-issued Lemania. There's also a stainless steel Audemars Piguet, and a wildly special piece by Van Cleef & Arpels, which I got to get up close and personal with at the Miami Beach Antique Show. Speaking of which, it was great to meet so many readers while browsing the show shout out to Charlie and Rich! Without further ado, let's kick off the breakdown of the fruits of the year's fir...

Today Cartier timepieces are created in La Chaux-de Fonds, the heart of the Swiss watch industry, at a modern 30,000 square foot facility. And its not only design and manufacturing that takes place under one roof, Cartiers lauded restoration department restores and repairs any watch Cartier has ever produced. Roughly 170 roles are represented at the facility, all contributing to the manufacturing of Cartier's impressive modern in-house calibers.? Alejandro Ferrer's notes detailing his career, including his 31 years at Cartier New York. But it might suprise you to learn (it did me) that there was an era when Cartier was manuf...

As part of this week's LVMH Watch Week in Dubai, Zenith is dropping a ton of new models. One of the focuses though is the Defy Midnight collection, a totally new family of everyday watches targeted at women. The foundations of the collection are a 36mm Defy case in stainless steel, a trio of gradient dials marked with a night sky pattern (some of the stars are lume, no less), diamond hour markers, and a system that lets you swap between the steel bracelet and the included straps without tools (each watch comes with three extra straps in colors coordinated with the watch's dial).You do have a few choices though. First, you can select from gradient grey, gradient blue, or gradient mother of pe...

At the very core of the Swiss timekeeping philosophy is a deep appreciation for tradition. Things are done a certain way, and sometimes they are done that way simply because they've been done that way for a very long time. But every now and again a manufacturer comes along and tweaks the formula, doing it slightly differently. Chronoswiss manages to do both, with an eye to the past by way of resurrecting and sustaining the regulator layout, an 18th-century movement innovation, while at the same time experimenting with avant-garde materials and case finishing techniques.? At the turn of the millenium, watch writers dedicated plent...

Designed in tribute to the Land Rover Defender, this is the new Zenith Defy 21 Land Rover Edition. Opting for a closed dial and a matte finish for the matching grey case, this new Defy 21 is a limited edition that manages to form a style connection with the tough, stately, and always cool Defender. For those not all that interested in prestige British SUVs, the Defender was produced by Land Rover from 1983 until around 2016 and a brand new model was announced last year and will be on the roads soon. Traditionally the brand's answer to the likes of the Jeep Wrangler or even the Mercedes G-Wagon, there is a cult following surrounding these handsome and toolish off-roaders. This new Zenith limi...

Zenith has released new versions of what might be its most straightforward and traditional watch line. The Elite Classic remains an attractive range of automatic watches with in-house movements and classic designs, but there are some updates worth knowing about. First off, the new Elite Classic comes in two new sizes. Whereas the existing models were billed simply as Elite Classic with a diameter of 39mm (there is also an Elite Lady with a diameter of 33mm), the new editions are being billed as unisex and are 40.5mm and 36mm.?But I think more than the case size changes, it's the updates to the dials that make the bigger impression.?Four new references were announced at LVMH Watch Week in Dub...

We don't typically report too heavily on line extensions and small model variations here on HODINKEE, but this new addition to the Octo Finissimo line-up is just too damn cool to ignore. Last year, Bulgari added an all matte black ceramic model to the Octo Finissimo collection, and it was met with just as much excitement as you'd expect. It's a matte black take on an already popular watch C nobody's going to argue with that. But now we're getting that same watch in a new finish. Bulgari is calling it "sandblast-polished" ceramic, but what they really mean is a mixture of sandblasted and polished finishes. If you look closely at the images here, you can tell that certain facets on the case an...

Last year at Baselworld, Bulgari released the Serpenti Seduttori, a single strap/bracelet version of the iconic Serpenti. The Serpenti usually features a double or triple wrap bracelet with enamel or gold scales. The Sedutori, on the other hand, has a case head shaped like a snake's head (just like the Serpenti) with a standard single scaled bracelet or leather strap. When the Seduttori was first released it had a quartz movement. Well it's back now with a manual-winding tourbillon movement in three versions: white gold with diamonds and a leather strap; white gold with diamonds and a matching scaled bracelet; and rose gold with diamonds and a leather strap. The caliber BVL150 boasts a tourb...

The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater was first launched in 2016 and at the time, it was the world's thinnest repeater in production, both in terms of the case and the movement. The titanium case was a mere 6.85mm thick and the movement, caliber BVL362, only 3.12mm thick. The watch was unusual in other respects as well, as time-only minute repeaters are typically expressions of classical watchmaking not only in their mechanics (the repeater is the pinnacle of complexity of the traditional high complications and to this day has successfully resisted being industrialized) but in their designs as well. Traditional round cases, simple dials, and dial furniture whose language was codified a ...

With his popular History Channel series Digging For The Truth, Josh Bernstein breathed life into historical events that shaped the world, yet in many cases remained clouded by mystery even in modern times. Journeying into ancient pyramids, following the trail of the Holy Grail, and traveling to Pompeii, Bernstein gave viewers front row seats as he attempted to unravel ancient archaeological enigmas and discover what became of people and civilizations from thousands of years ago. For much of his life, Bernstein has been a watch guy too, starting with the Seikos and Casios he wore as a kid and continuing through to the watches pict...

That a Hublot Big Bang with an integrated bracelet hadnt existed until this very moment is nothing short of an enigma. In an era when every major manufacturer is scrambling to invest in the R&D, design, and production of a stainless-steel sports watch with an integrated bracelet, Hublot had a lot less work to do, because the perfect platform already existed in their line-up all along: The Big Bang.? It took a little rejigging to make a bracelet work seamlessly with the iconic case, but now its available in three entirely new iterations. What you wont find, however, is a stainless-steel model. Instead the watch comes in tit...

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